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    Well and Septic Install

    Installing The Well.

    Another part of the project to leave to the experts.

    When first meeting and choosing a contractor for the Well there are some things you need to know as far as exactly what will I get for my money. (the well permit cost should be in his price).

    Get a bottom line price for a shallow well and a not to exceed price for a deep well (a shallow well being 20ft minimum by code). There are other certain criteria that have to be met by code and the inspector will be there to make sure this is done.

    If you can’t get a straight answer and explanation for the “what if” questions you want answers to, Some “what if’s” you need answers on might be;

    What if, my cloudy water doesn’t clear up?.

    What if, my water spits like it has air in it?.

    What if, my water doesn’t pass the safe to drink test? (done by your health inspector).

    Will I need another well?

    How much will it cost me for another well?

    If you feel that the answers are too vague or will cost you a small fortune to fix, Find and consult with another Well contractor for alternatives before you hire one.

    You will also need a concrete slab to set the pump and tank on, does he do this for you?

    If he does be sure to know the size of the slab that he thinks will work and the one you want that actually works for you.


    My Well contractor was putting the slab in for me ( the well was now in the ground), he had an overly-used 2×4 frame that was 54×64 inches (it was big enough for the pump, tank, and electrical) this was plenty of room to have easy access to everything in there.

    BUT, what he didn’t do was level the ground around the well, or set the frame square, so now I have an out of level and out of square slab to build the pump house on, but didn’t know it at the time, I was working my regular job when this happened. I should have made them take it out and start over. (I did not do this and was able to overcome the issue)

    So, double-check everything that everybody does, it’s your home and you are the general contractor on it and you have to live there.

    This is where you need to think about how much room you need once you add the pump house to the slab, will you be putting in a water filtration system, make it big enough to be able to get to and work on anything inside the pumphouse comfortably, including a filtration system that you won’t know if you need until you see what kind of water you will be pumping up.

    Ask, What kind of pump is best. (I recommend) this pump with pressure gauge and check valve

    Ask, What kind of tank is best. (I recommend) I have not had any problems with either of these recommendations, and the price is right compared to close comparisons.

    And it could save you money to buy these yourself, saving you the contractor mark up.

    I knew nothing about Wells at the time, but I did know I wanted a 115/230 pump with a higher HP because they cost less to run on the 230 switches over the 115 and also a top of the line pressure tank.

    my contractor had already recommended this as the way to go.

    As far as filtration goes, after I had run water for a while and determined that I needed something to keep the heavy sediment particles out, I just went with a really simple solution of an inline filter that I change about every 6 months, it works and lets me know when to change the filter (if I forget to change the filter the water pressure will start to drop) It works and it works for me.


    The Septic System.

    This part of the build should also be left to the experts unless you have some knowledge and experience and are confident enough to do it yourself.

    If you need a contractor, and most of you will. Ask questions.

    There are 8 different residential septic system types that are most commonly used, but at the end of the day, they all do the same job (or do they!). Talk to your contractor about it.

    If you live in a town and have never had to deal with a septic system, here are some questions to ask all the contractors you have invited to give you a quote;

    What kind of system do you suggest for this location?

    What do I get for my money?

    How does it compare with other systems comparable in price?

    What is the best system for this area?

    Is there a maintenance-free system?

    Will it need to be treated every month?

    Will it ever need to be pumped out, if so when and why?

    Knowing all the options and prices is the best way to decide on a system, but be aware, the contractor you are talking to may only like to do one particular type of system. So be sure to talk to more than one.

    One of the most common and cheapest is the drain and leach field system, but again the septic system installation cost will always be affected by installation requirements laid out by the Health Inspector, determined by soil and perk tests, the size of the home and other factor’s. Additional information can be found on the website.

    Your septic system will also need to be inspected by the health inspector before it gets covered up, your septic contractor will coordinate this with him when he puts the system in. When the system is in, the contractor should leave the system ready to use.

    NOTE; There are some things you should NEVER put down the drains.

    Grease and food waste will mess up a tank in no time (so forget about having a garbage disposal) Tampons and certain brands of toilet paper some of these will not biodegrade or break down in the system and will cause future problems. Certain cleaning products also should not be used, talk to the contractor about this stuff.

    Here are a couple of Septic safe items, and there are plenty more, but these work for me, toilet paper and cleaning products, and septic tank treatments. Not the least expensive but the best for the money, I wouldn’t recommend anything that I have not used and approved myself.




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